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In the midst of all of those famed vineyards that swathe California's Napa Valley, lies the little town of Yountville. There we discovered a bit of Provence: a French-influenced B&B in a "flowering house"...Maison Fleurie.

The vine-layered-brick main building, dating back approximately 130 years, has served many purposes; the most divergent being a bordello and a 4H club! This former "sporting house" and youth center now offers 13 wonderful guestrooms spread between three structures clustered amid the gardens. The main building contains the lobby, the country-style parlor, and 7 rooms upstairs. The remaining 6 rooms are divided among the "Old Bakery" and the "Carriage House". Room sizes and facilities vary, with some offering fireplaces, spa tubs, and patios.


Abundant and delicious breakfasts are served in the parlor, as are afternoon wine and hors d'oeuvres. Cookies, coffee, tea, and a decanter of sherry remain available in the evenings. The landscaped grounds include a pool, a hot tub, and peaceful spots for relaxing after a day of serious wine tasting!

We stayed in the Carriage House. Our room wasn't enormous, but it was lovingly decorated in a country french theme, and a couple of walls had witty trompe l'oeil drawings which suggested a fisherman just returned from his task. There was a lovely and refreshing scent pervading the room (I never did determine exactly what the source was). Nightly turndown service included chocolates, which always ensures happy dreams as far as I'm concerned. All of the guestrooms are inhabited by whimsical Teddy Bears, who are available for adoption. Our resident bear adopted us, as did another who lived in the lobby's sitting area!

As far as area activities, I'm not even going to attempt to cover the opportunities for "winerying" in the Napa Valley....the variety and options are innumerable. Suffice it to say there's a winery and wine for every taste and inclination. The staff at Maison Fleurie can provide assistance for newbies or those who need suggestions; otherwise, just head down the main highway and take lots of turns onto the side roads and country lanes! Don't forget, there are quite a few shopping choices in the area, as well.

The Napa Valley is also a Mecca for foodies, and probably the most celebrated restaurant of all is The French Laundry in Yountville. We were lucky (or persistent) enough to obtain reservations for dinner after following the recommendation of the Maison Fleurie innkeepers: start calling at exactly 10:00am exactly two months ahead of the desired date...and keep redialing or holding, as the case may be. It was worth the effort; we enjoyed one of the most extraordinary dining experiences of our rather restaurant-intensive lives. The 100 year-old stone building was originally a French steam laundry, and an unobtrusive sign is the only indication of the renowned and award-winning cuisine offered within. The various rooms of the restaurant are defined by simple elegance, and the service was refined and attentive, never stuffy. The menu was creative, as we expected, and the best one-word description of the food would be divine! Each course outdid the one preceding it, and the presentation was truly artistic. Our server must have noticed my bliss while consuming the "chocolate fantasy" desert; when he brought a dish of after-dinner chocolates, made on the premises, he gave me a heaping handful after I daintily selected just one, saying "I know you want more of these!" There are two prix-fixe menus, and they aren't for the faint of budget....but the dining event is sublimely remarkable in every way!

We also had dinner at Tra Vigne, a trendy restaurant located in St. Helena. In fact, its popularity was evidenced by the fact that we had to wait 40 minutes, even with reservations. We had last dined here several years ago, when the charming old building was in a different incarnation with high-backed wooden booths. The space is entirely open now, giving it an airy, bustling and fairly noisy atmosphere...quite a difference from The French Laundry. The food was tasty though, and our server made excellent recommendations (especially the house-made mozzarella). On previous visits we've purchased delicacies from the adjacent deli and lunched in the attractive courtyard.

Our third dinner was at Livefire, a barbeque/smokehouse located just steps away from Maison Fleurie. We had a thoroughly enjoyable lunch there during a past Napa journey, and on this night I used those enticingly smokey fragrances as an excuse to indulge in one of my once-in-a-great-while steaks...rare (both in occurrence and meat temperature) and yummy! Maison Fleurie provides menus from several restaurants for browsing and planning, and the innkeepers are glad to assist. Plus, fans of food and cooking also have the treat of a large branch of Dean and Deluca in St. Helena; it's overflowing with temptations of the both the edible and the functional varieties!

Maison Fleurie is part of the Four Sisters group of ten inns...we definitely plan on visiting some of the others after our delightful stay in this little transplant of the French countryside! You may call the B&B at 800-788-0369. Enjoy!

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