What is the result when all of the refined, genteel details of an old home, built in 1880, are combined with today's modern conveniences, tucked away unobtrusively? The lovely outcome is The Dunbar House, a Bed and Breakfast which seamlessly blends the grace of the 19th century with the creature comforts of the current era. During our recent stay, we thoroughly enjoyed our own backwards step in time...but still found all of those little necessities that are sometimes lacking in vintage B&Bs, such as ensuite phones, TVs, air-conditioning, and the all-important private baths.

Willis Dunbar was a prominent citizen and community leader in Murphys, a tiny Calaveras County mining town established during the days of California's gold rush. After marrying his much younger bride, Ellen, he built two identical houses for her in 1880. One was in Murphys (which was below the snow line in winter), and the other was on the family's ranch near Arnold (up the hill and cooler in the summer). He had them constructed as exact duplicates so that Ellen wouldn't have to remember two different floor plans (I do wonder if Willis was exceedingly kind, or if he thought Ellen might bump into walls or some such catastrophe). Unfortunately, the ranch house burned to the ground in approximately 1962; leaving its twin in Murphys as the sole reminder of Willis' love for Ellen.

Moving forward to 1986, Bob and Barbara Costa visited a friend in Murphys and stayed at The Dunbar House, by then a B&B. The old house hadn't been maintained and was in need of more appropriate decorating and furnishings that would do it justice. The Costas has just returned from a trip to Europe during which they stayed at several B&Bs, so Barbara was able to visualize the possibilities. Happily, it just so happened that there was also a "For Sale" sign on the lawn. As Barbara started planning her renovations and Bob warily hired inspectors, the transition was begun and the Costas closed escrow on their very own B&B in April 1987.

Much hard work followed: enlarging some rooms, adding private baths to each, locating period furnishings and family antiques. The Costas' dream was realized, and their subsequent visitors have been treated to a delightful lodging experience. As you enter the dining room and see the ever-present goodies that await on a sideboard (homemade cookies, fresh lemonade and various teas, nuts, candies and other yummies), you'll know that you're going to be treated as an honored (and pampered) guest. Stroll into the sitting room, and you'll find a cozy spot where you're encouraged to relax and "make yourself at home". There is a piano and a guitar, magazines and books, menus from local restaurants, a journal containing guests' comments on the different dining options, decanters of Port and Sherry for an after-dinner libation...all provided for your enjoyment.

There are four charming rooms at the Dunbar House: two downstairs and two up. On the garden level you'll find Cedar, a two-bedroom suite with private sun porch and Sequoia, the former library, decorated in teal and burgundy. The second floor holds Ponderosa, the former master bedroom, and Sugar Pine, which is the suite we called home during our visit. This sunny and cheery room offers a private balcony at tree level. Imported linens and a down comforter grace the queen-sized bed; reading chairs may be swiveled to face the TV/VCR (concealed in an armoire...there's a library of complementary videos in the parlor) or turned toward the gas burning stove. The bathroom contains a 6-foot clawfoot tub, separate shower with soft robes thoughtfully provided, antique furnishings housing conveniences such as make-up mirror and hair dryer, and an English towel warmer (such pampering.). A mini-bar area just inside the entry has a fridge (stocked each afternoon with a delicious plate of appetizers, a bottle of local wine, plus mineral water and juices) as well as a hot-water tap for the selection of tea and coffee that is also provided. A CD player is camouflaged in an old-style radio (CDs of soft music add to the ambience).

Dunbar breakfasts are a true delight. Guests may be served in the privacy of their room, in the dining room by candlelight, or in the lush, expansive garden. We opted for al fresco feasting on the bright summer mornings of our visit and couldn't have asked for more perfect beginnings for our day. Surrounded by trees, flowers, birds and the soothing sounds of a fountain, we dined on fresh fruit, breakfast breads, a delectable hot entree, juice, tea and coffee (all beautifully presented). We also had a chance to meet the other guests and chat in this relaxing haven. After this satisfying meal, we were definitely tempted to deposit ourselves in the hammock and drift for awhile. But...there's too much to be done in Murphys to laze away the day.

As I mentioned earlier, Murphys (known as the Queen of the Sierra) is a part of California's gold rush legacy. There are reminders of yesteryear everywhere in this little foothills village, as well as memories of some of the characters who helped shape the past...including Mark Twain and his wildly hopping Calaveras County frogs, Brett Harte, and Black Bart. After you've absorbed the fascinating history of the area, there are several other things to do and see close by. A most enjoyable activity in and near Murphys is visiting the local wineries. A few highlights, in addition to the marvelous wines, are: the lovely picnic area at Stevenot, with a friendly resident dog (who is always hungry but never pushy); the spacious and interesting building at Kautz Ironstone, which is worth a tour in itself and includes an impressive stone fireplace, a deli, and an attractive deck; the seasonal gourmet box lunches at Chatom which can be consumed on their attractive grounds or perhaps taken to the very pleasant riverside park in Murphys; and the whimsical sheep-related collections at Black Sheep. The six wineries of the Calaveras Wine Association presented their first (of many, we hope) Passport Weekend in June 1997. At each winery there were special tastings and terrific hors d'oeuvres awaiting all passport holders, as well as entertainment, drawings for prizes, and lots of fun. Proceeds from the passport sales went to a scholarship fund, and there was also an optional Vintners Dinner at Kautz on Saturday evening (it was superb.). For more information on wine tasting, read our article which spotlights each of these unique wineries individually: "The Varied Wineries of Calaveras County". By the way, for beer fans, there's also a micro brewery just outside of town - watch out for that Stout. Besides the shops, galleries and historic buildings of Murphys, there's a museum and also two very lively remnants from gold mining times...Clarissa and Cass, the town's burros; a tip for making fast friends - they adore carrots. A leisurely drive up the hill will take you to Big Trees State Park, with its immense redwoods; to Bear Valley ski resort; and over Ebbets Pass to a couple of brisk and shimmering alpine lakes.

Murphys hosts its annual "Gold Rush Day" the first Saturday in October. We've attended each of these celebrations since their debut in 1994, and the event grows larger and attracts more attention and visitors each year. There's a craft fair on closed-off Main Street where strolling shoppers can find just about anything imaginable...and even some things that aren't. There's a Fun Run, plus day-long entertainment and food booths to appease any hunger. The delightful community park is the site of a silent auction, entertainers in the bandshell, representatives from each of the local wineries providing tastings, and the truly indescribable Grape Stomp.



If this brings to mind reruns of "I Love Lucy" with the two grape-stained women romping in a vat of fruit, you've got the right idea. The Murphys' Grape Stomp isn't quite that messy, but it is just as much fun to watch as the 2-person teams (a stomper squishing grapes in the barrel and a mucker trying to coax the juice to run out the spigot into a container) compete in several heats during the day leading up to the frenzied finals. Since 1994's initial Stomp, the teams have grown in number; and more and more of them are wearing imaginative costumes, employing creative strategies, and developing individual styles to go for the juice...after careful observation we've determined that the mucker holds the key to victory and also can end up covered in grape debris. Whether you participate or just cheer for your favorites, it's a terrific way to spend a lovely autumn afternoon in the foothills enjoying one of those "only-in-California" rites.

So when it's time for your next journey, be sure to remember Bob and Barbara Costa and their marvelous Dunbar House, 1880.